A bunch of us were out there climbing. By early afternoon conditions had become pretty bad with small avalanches pouring down the face. Heidi Noroozy writes multicultural fiction set in Germany and Iran. "When I saw the frayed end, I realized he'd cut it," Simpson says. ! I was at 6,000m and I couldn't think how we could get out; a mountain rescue team needs eight or 10 men to get someone with a broken leg off a mountain. What a story it is. By dark, the conditions were appalling. real-world solutions, and more. Near the summit, tragedy struck when Joe, up over 19,000 feet, fell and hit a slope at the base of a cliff, breaking his right leg, rupturing his right knee, and shattering his right heel.
There's another reviewer below who was bored by this book. continue to respect all commenters and create constructive debates. Joe Simpson, 36, is a climber, author and Greenpeace activist.

Simon Yates (born 1963) is an English mountaineer.In 1985, he climbed the west face of Siula Grande in the Huayhuash mountain range in the Peruvian Andes with Joe Simpson.On the descent, an accident resulted in Simpson falling over a cliff while roped to Yates, who was forced to … You have to be pretty evenly matched in terms of temperament and ability. What he should really have said was, "I'll go off and get some help," which would have been a euphemism for, "You've had it." Her work has appeared in Salon,... By Patricia Winton In the temperate spring weather, people gather in Italian piazzas in the early evening before dinner. Simpson recalls the three-day ascent through wind, snow and plunging temperatures as "the most precarious, unnerving and dangerous climbing I'd ever done." Crossing Alborz By Heidi Noroozy Crossing Iran’s Alborz Mountains on the Chalous Road from Tehran to the Caspian Sea is some... Last year, I wrote a number of movie reviews for the Astoria International Film Festival. Simpson, 28, passed through Los Angeles on a promotional tour for the book recently and reflected on how the event has changed his life. "It was a strange experience. Fact-checking the debate: President Trump unleashed a blizzard of falsehoods; Joe Biden hewed closer to the truth, but strayed at times. “It’s quite clear to a mountaineer,” Simpson said. He lives in Sheffield with his dog, Muttley. Anyway, we were practically there - just one final effort and we'd have got down on the glacier. Oldest first, -1) ? I didn't put a knot at the end of the rope. Touching the Void is Joe Simpson’s account of the ordeal he and Simon Yates endured in 1985. I don't really care what people outside climbing think about the cutting of the rope, because they don't understand what was involved. "I woke up, not knowing why," Hawking recalls, "and was aware of this strange atmosphere. There is talk of a film being made from the book. It would be such a tough decision - no matter which way you choose, someone's going to suffer. Please When night came, the climbers were still at 20,000 feet, and as they prepared drinking water, their gas ran out. People have said it was heroic, but I was doing the only thing I could do in the circumstances. The west face, remote and treacherous, had not been climbed before. The existing Open Comments threads will continue to exist for those who do not subscribe to to your comment.
He found the crevasse Simpson had fallen into, called out numerous times for his friend, but didn’t receive a reply. He began to pull on the rope, and the rope kept coming.

It allows our most engaged readers to debate the big issues, share their own experiences, discuss The best in film, music, TV & radio straight to your inbox, Register with your social account or click here to log in. He has twice come close to losing his life on mountaineering expeditions; the story of his extraordinary survival in the Peruvian Andes is told in his award- winning book Touching the Void. He found Yates's footprints, which helped lead him to base camp until a snowfall covered them. I felt a tug on the rope, and when I caught up with Joe and discovered he had broken his leg, I felt pretty bloody horrified. We also knew that if anything went wrong there was no chance of anyone coming to rescue us. SIMON YATES: We got to know each other in 1984 in Chamonix in the French Alps. Simpson, sliding on his stomach, in shock and severely dehydrated, screamed each time his broken leg jabbed into the snow. I was told by doctors that, as the bone in my lower leg had been driven up through the knee, I'd never walk again, let alone climb. As far as I understand Simpson and Yates are still talking to each other but I'm not so sure if they're the buddies they were prior to this expedition. The mountaineer Simon Yates, 33, was born in Leicestershire. I did prove the doctors wrong, but it wasn't until five years later, when I climbed Ama Dablam in Nepal, that I succeeded. On the third day I decided to pack up; there was no point staying; I was asleep in the tent when I was woken by Joe's voice, calling my name. This is a true story of a mountain expedition in the Andes where two British partners take risks acceptable to experienced and fit climbers. They had thought they could walk the north ridge. I don’t want to lose that.”. Are you sure you want to delete this comment? Ive done some climbing, traveled and climbed in the Andes and read many climbing books and this book is outrageous. Here are the Los Angeles Times’ editorial board endorsements for president, California ballot measures and more. In mountaineering you have to make logical, cold decisions. Simpson tried to work his way back up the rope but because of badly frost-bitten hands, he couldn’t tie the knots needed to successfully ascend.

I read this after seeing the excellent movie, and Joe's reflections, at the end of this book about the experience of helping make the film and reliving the horror (he and Simon are played by actors in wide shot, but the climbers provided all the close-up technical shots)- provides additional and unexpected depth and humanity. Painted by Diego Rivera -- Palacio de Gobierno I’ve always been a fan of art, and even though I can’t use a paint brush to save mysel... A lot of great ideas for memorable stories start with “what if?”, is Joe Simpson’s account of the ordeal he and Simon Yates endured in 1985. ", As a climber, "you've got to keep making decisions, even if they're wrong decisions," Simpson continues. The following day, I saw the huge crevasse beyond the ice cliff - and realised that's where Joe had gone. "He thanked me for trying to get him down the mountain, for all I'd done up to the point where I'd cut the rope, and he said, 'I'd have done the same. Create a commenting name to join the debate. This is an amazing story, Alli. "I wanted to climb the world," he says, "This hadn't been part of our game plan. Yates unzipped the pack, pulled out the knife and cut the rope that held his partner. A bunch of us were out there climbing.

they can to create a true meeting of independent Premium. I made my way back to base camp, where I spent a few days recovering physically; the grieving process hadn't yet started. . In the darkness, I accidentally lowered Joe over an ice cliff. Yates then executed the decision that would leave him twisting between guilt and reality for the next three days: “Joe was dead. At one point the cheesy lyrics of the pop group Boney M were running through his head, and he couldn't believe he was going to die to Boney M. lmost 20 years years later, Simpson--who, though he has lost nearly 20 friends or acquaintances to the mountains, continues to climb--says he still isn't sure how he survived. There's a pragmatic side to mountaineering which armchair climbers and the public do not understand. We were experienced climbers, but we'd never been to that altitude before: Siula Grande is 6,356m high, just under 21,000ft. For the next three days Simpson made his way back to the camp, crawling over ice, dragging his broken leg, hopping over rocks. As long as Simon was still alive, I had a fighting chance of getting out. No chance.”. In 1985, Simpson, then 25, together with his 21-year-old climbing partner Simon Yates, set off to climb the west face of Siula Grande, a … We chose to go down the North Ridge, as we thought it would be simpler than the West Face we had just come up, but it proved to be just as bad.

“I think it would be a very difficult film to make, to make it sensitively,” Simpson said. Want to bookmark your favourite articles and stories to read or reference later?

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Most liked, -1) ? Was Yates simply following some traditional code of climbing, a law of the mountain: “If you can’t save the other guy, save yourself.”? The Austro-Hungarian Jewels and Their Jews, West Face of Siula Grande -- Photo by J. Bryndell.


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