It's heavy-going, but fun eating here. Served with brioche, it sets the theme for drink-friendly dishes built around carbs, big flavours and luxurious fats.

Worse might be judging from afar. You're driving. He says Elektra will allow the team "to move away from being so heavily anchored in Greek cuisine, which means we can be more eclectic with our influences".

Melbourne, There's much food for thought on this subject, like where are the worst discrepancies found? There are also five zero-proof cocktails. After more than a decade in the trenches and four years in the restaurant group, he had just been handed creative control of this restaurant when the fateful Fair Work Ombudsman ruling dropped. Worse would be if you never knew the union of warm treacly breadcrumbs and an icy sharp whip of licorice sorbet. In three weeks, Elektra will open in the same space, with much the same glitzy gold, deep-boothed first-class-on-a-spaceship fitout and the same team, including general manager Vanessa Crichton, chef Reuben Davis and manager Joey Commerford. There are 30 local and international wines on the list, compiled by sommelier Frederico Bianco, all available by the glass. Elektra is set to open in Surry Hills in mid-2017. We do not seek or accept payment from the cafes, restaurants, bars and shops listed in the Directory – inclusion is at our discretion. Vegetarian Good options: try barbecued leeks with truffle paste and sauce vin jaune. The wine list will also give up its orthodox Greek angle and introduce some blaufrankisch from Austria and primitivo from Puglia while cocktails will be a little more free-form (batch negronis and kombucha spritzes) than the drinks trolley the Press Club offered. Created largely by executive chef Reuben Davis, it's more global: tandoor-cooked octopus with lime pickle, camembert baked in a thyme-salt crust with hasselback potato dippers, oysters cooked in bacon butter with grape vinegar and Welsh rarebit on sourdough with sea urchin. Which brings us to Elektra, George Calombaris' Press Club reborn as a more casual resto-bar, tellingly, with the figurehead stepping out of frame. And whatever you think of the Great Wage Debate, in which the Made Establishment has been made an extreme example, I wonder who would want to lay a charge on the head of chef Reuben Davis. Head in between 5pm and 6pm for happy hour, where natural oysters are $2 a pop and the bar staff will custom-build a spritz to your taste for $12. Booths face into other booths, and with barriers between them removed, the music must be amped up to create a sense of privacy. It seems strange, not changing the room, logistically at least. Get the best of Broadsheet straight to your inbox, © 2020 Broadsheet Media.

Venue profiles are written by independent freelancers paid by Broadsheet. Bring it on. 3000.

How you use Elektra is up to you, and so is how you view it. He also entered the Bocuse d'Or culinary grand prix in Lyon, France, when he was 23-years-old, and finished in 16th position.

In late 2019 it was resurrected as Elektra – notably sans-Calombaris – with long-time Press Club chef Reuben Davis running the show. Hash brown with tarama and trout roe. Just hours after … Elektra will be headed up by current Press Club executive chef Reuben Davis, and is named after the Greek goddess Electra (Calombaris subbed out the "c" as it doesn't exist in the Greek alphabet). If you’re waiting for a table you can grab a seat near the self-serve mini bar, which stocks piccolos of champagne, pre-batched cocktails (such as the King Otto, which is a bit like a Negroni with sweet vermouth, tsipouro – a Greek brandy – and Campari), little jars of olives and tins of anchovies. According to Calombaris, the difference will largely come down to a relaxed attitude and a broadening and loosening of the menu's scope. "To review or not to review." By whom? But now there are high tables and stools, a chef’s table for two in the kitchen downstairs, and a snack menu on the wall – hot oysters in bacon butter; hash browns with trout roe and tarama; mussels and broad beans on toast – reinforcing the idea that this is the kind of place you might wander past and drop into on a whim. Drinks A tight one-page old and new world list, with premium bottles for the old guard. Jobs have been axed. Luring punters over the threshold so Elektra can sell itself.

If wage scandals are our cross to bear, fine. In March 2019, before that second figure was released, Made and Calombaris announced that The Press Club, the Flinders Lane Greek fine diner of more than 20 years, would close. A restaurant, or a really upscale bar? Make that choice first-hand. Elektra is due to open on July 31 at 72 Flinders Street, Melbourne. Pre-order our second cookbook New Classics. Some of the camel-coloured leather booths remain, along with the gold mirror wall. Former Press regulars are still muscling in expecting the kind of service where they can throw a command of "a bottle of red" to the sommelier and have the correct bottle of blaufränkisch appear.

Maps ©, The Press Club, the Flinders Lane Greek fine diner of more than 20 years, would close. Broadsheet is a trade mark used under licence by Broadsheet Media Pty Ltd from BM IP Pty Ltd as trustee for the BM IP Trust. Or go for a cocktail instead. Cost Snacks and small plates $18-$22; large dishes $28-$38. A warm salad of witlof, fresh tangelo segments and grilled chicken livers from Milking Yard Farm in Trentham comes with a cognac, madeira and mustard dressing. The Elektra team: (from left) Joey Commerford, executive chef Reuben Davis, Vanessa Crichton and George Calombaris.

But the Flinders Street site won't stay cold. This means only eight of those camel-toned horseshoe booths are available, with a few bar tables added to the room's end. The wages scandal is rumoured to be costing Calombaris’s restaurant group big business. This, chased by the deep bowl lined with fine slivers of just-seared chicken livers with witlof and fresh tangelo and a boozy hint of brandy and madeira like a deconstructed parfait tells you Davis' years working his way up the totem pole won't go to waste in this format. And veal schnitzel is served on the bone with a salad of parsley, fried capers and anchovies on top, and a tonnato-style tomato and tuna sauce underneath. Is it bait? Which brings us to Elektra, George Calombaris' Press Club reborn as a more casual resto-bar, tellingly, with the figurehead stepping out of frame. Pro Tip: Most early bookings will require your table back after one-and-a-half hours. It's up to you. But you could just go straight for the rich butter chicken loaded into a leafy Lune vol au vent. The Pina Collins takes chilli-infused rum and blends it with pineapple, falernum and lemon, and there’s the Bedsheet Companion with rye whiskey, muscat, maple syrup and orange bitters. It does.

But it's excellent, too, having this intensely glamorous room, with its ceiling covered in brassy gold pipes, suddenly yours as a playground, where instead of having to pay a $180 entry fee, you can simply order a $26 dressed crab from a new block letter menu. Embattled celebrity chef George Calombaris is quietly shelving his Greek restaurant empire after forking out $7.8m in a staff pay scandal. Press Club Projects, the custom-designed test kitchen further down Flinders Street, will remain the group's development kitchen, but it will also host private bookings. VIC There’s a cheeseburger with shiitake ketchup, vintage cheddar from Devon in the UK (Davis’s home town), coleslaw and mayo on a milk bun. I think Davis and his team, led by the impeccable Vanessa Crichton, deserve their shot. You should do that, if it's on. Go-to Dish: Treacle tart with licorice sorbet ($16).


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